Dust, dynamite and devil worship

Where on earth can you be both higher and deeper than you have ever been?

The answer is in the silver mines of mount Cerro Rico above Potosi. Over 4,000m above seal level Potosi is the highest city on earth. The silver mines of Cerro Rico are also one of the largest silver mines in the world and despite over 200 years of intensive mining they are still operational today; supplying tin, silver, zinc and other minerals. An adventure in the silver mines of Potosi

What’s it like to visit the mines of Potosi?

We took a mine tour to find out… As we followed our guide down narrow passages, occasionally dodging mine carriages, I began to loose my sense of direction and realised that I couldn’t find my way out, even if I wanted to. To add to the fear I had also purchased a stick of dynamite to detonate down the mines… how could I resist? It was only 20Bs (£2.00 or $3) and came with a free fuse and bag of ammonium nitrate.

We had also purchased gifts for the miners: A bag of coca leaves and a bottle of pop. If you do a tour and are asked if you want to buy gifts it is not a scam, the miners do genuinely appreciate these gestures from visitors to the mines. The miners chew coca leaves to help with the altitude, they also act as a stimulant to release energy and suppress hunger. Miners will also down shots of 98% ethanol.

The combination of high altitude, dry, dusty air and warmth make the mines feel like the temple of doom. We were led down a series of ladders deeper and deeper into the loins of the mountain. The passages became narrower and the ceiling lower. It was time to detonate the dynamite.

Our experienced guide, an ex-miner, set up the dynamite and ignited the fuse. I followed him down a small passage and watched him throw the stick into the dark… we retreated quickly. My heart was racing. As a chemistry teacher I am very comfortable with being in close proximity to explosions but not hundreds of feet underground. What if the ceiling collapses? All of a sudden there was an epic BOOM! I felt the pressure wave pass through my chest, dust and grit fell from the ceiling… and then an overwhelming sense of relief. We were fine!

An adventure in the silver mines of Potosi

On the way out we went to see an odd statue of the devil displaying his genitalia. This is El Tio, the miners believe he is the devil god of the underworld and will provide a good yield of minerals if they offer coca leaves, cigarettes and alcohol. The miners are catholic above ground, but make offerings to El Tio underground.

How do you organise a mine tour?

Mine tours can be organised from 80Bs (£8.00 or $12.00) and up. It is worth shopping around and checking exactly what is included. There are several tour operators along Ayacucho street, below 10 of November Square (Plaza 10 de Noviembre) in the centre of Potosi town. Local buses in Potosi are small minibuses often go to 10 of November Square (ask when you board) and cost 1.5Bs (15pence or around 25cents)

Tours tend to leave at 9pm and 1pm and take 3-4hours including transport. Clothing (overalls), boots helmet, head torch should be included- but it is worth checking for good measure. An adventure in the silver mines of Potosi

What should you bring?

The tour operator should provide clothing so go simple:

• Light weight cool clothing because the mine are warm
• A little money pressies, dynamite…etc…
• Camera (there is a lot of dust so a case is also helpful)
• A small day sack
• A small bottle of water

Watch the explosion with the Globemad Geek

An adventure in the silver mines of Potosi